Kora Kadan

Love our mineral springs hot tub outside our room at Kora Kadan

Love our mineral springs hot tub outside our room at Kora Kadan

Love our mineral springs hot tub outside our room at Kora Kadan

On our way to The Grand Bath in required Japanese clothes

On our way to The Grand Bath in required Japanese clothes

On our way to The Grand Bath in required Japanese clothes

My friend, Hitomi

My friend, Hitomi

My friend, Hitomi

Last dinner

Looking forward to Anthony’s wings! Good bye Japan. Great memories.

Last dinner

Last dinner

Hitomi and family

Hitomi, her Mom and Dad, her two brothers and her daughter who is an ER nurse in LA treated us to our last great Japanese dinner

Hitomi and family

Hitomi and family

Nikko

Friday, the 27th

I have lost my email and iPad for a few days so will try to update you as best I can.

On Friday, the 27th which I think is the 26th in USA , we drove 2 1/2 hours to drive again into the cool mountains to visit Nikko National Park. The Toshogu Shrine for Tokugau, Shogan is 400 years old and the first we have seen so set in the forest of cedar trees. So beautiful with its colors, art and architectural technique from the 17th Century!
This Shogan brought his religion of a combination of , Confucianism  Buddhism and Shintoism to control Japan.
Several of the 23 buildings were know to us previously such as the sleeping cat and the three monkeys !- “Se no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”.
We then took 22 hairpin turns up the sacred Mount Nantai to Kegon Waterfalls. This is one of Japan’s three most beautiful waterfalls and you would recognize it in so many Japanese paintings.

We had lunch by the lake at a small Japanese restaurant and both enjoyed fresh salmon trout
I cannot believe the number of wonderful restaurants with such fresh foods and fish in his country. it never ends
Checked into the old Hotel Kanaya where supposedly McArthur signed the Japanese Constitution in 1946. We also saw photos of Eisenhower and Lindberg in the halls. Quite a unique hotel. I don’t think it has changed since 1945. We walked into the town for an hour or so and Jon found a little antique store where he was able to finish his netsuke collection by buying the pouch (Inro) ). The netsuke (the toggle or button) hangs  at the end of a cord which goes over a sash with the pouch hanging from it . Kinda confusing but Jon loves it…Always  collecting something new.

Saturday, September 28th.

Things then started to fall apart for me!
I interrupted an update on my iPad and it fried. So now, I am without a way to communicate or work on my blog.
Shortly after, for the first time in five weeks, I lost my focus and took the worse fall yet smashing my chin, knees, foot and destroying my camera. Luckily, since I am so determined to have a great trip, I got up and with a few bruises managed to complete the day. I had been so careful for all of the trip and was so mad at myself.
So much for crossing the beautiful red lacquer wooded Shinkyo bridge spanning the Daiya River dating since 1636. I just couldn’t do it. Besides, the sun was not right and I really couldn’t even get a good photo.
We drove up to the Tampzaara Palace, the Imperial summer palace. The current Emperor Taisho spent two years at the house through the war when he was 9 years old where there was an underground shelter we were able to see.
We took a walk by the riverside, Ganman-ga-Fuchi, a sacred spot for the followers of Buddism. About 70 stone statues of Jizo, the bodhisattva of children, line the path by the river. Jizo is the unenlightened Buddha, who leads the children, who have died in infancy or from abortions to heaven. We were really touched by a pair of small rice slippers on one of the shrines. Could only begin to picture the parent leaving them there and wondering what the story was
The Shunkaen Bonsai Garden was our next extra special treat. To see 500-600 year old Pine and Cypress trees was incredible. There were even bonsai maples turning Autumn colors.We saw how the nursery babysat for people who are having trouble with their bonsai and left them there until they were healthy again.
Never enough gardens in this country so off we went to Kiyosumi looking for more Koi pictures for my friend and Koi painter, Jacquie Roch.
What better place to spend the early evening than at the four story Apple Store! After an hour and a half of trying to get my iPad to download the upgrade, the genius decided I should leave it there for the night and go to the special dinner where we had reservations.
Stephanoes, Italian restaurant was just what we needed…artichoke salad, calamari, lamb chops and veal…a good diversion from Japanese. We love Stephano, an Italian from Venice who came to Japan because he loved martial arts, married a Japanese girl and here he is 20 years later, owning a wonderful, small gourmet Italian restaurant. We felt like family when we left.

Sunday, September 29th.

Started this beautiful, blue sky day, at the Imperial East gardens On the Palace  grounds across the street come our hotel. This was Hirohito’s favorite garden and after the war, he opened it to the public. We were greeted by an unusual winter cherry tree in full bloom. What a treat!
We Immediately went to the pond, where at least a hundred many color Koi were swimming. The present Emperor Akihito and his wife are in residence here in this 275 acre park. What an amazing place to live.
Spent a short time at the Yushukan War Museum following the Japanese in World War II and then left A very happy Jon at a flea market while I spent another couple hours at the App,e Store. As you can see, it seemed to work enough to let me get back to writing my blog and answering some emails. Not all is cured yet. Still waiting for photos, weather, contacts so if you don’t hear from me, be patient, I will be home in just a few days.
Couldn’t leave Tokyo Without walking down Harajuku, Omoteando St, noted for its fine fashion and architecture. And, you wouldn’t believe the super market. I was asked not to take photos which I was taking of the $40 small box of blueberries. Even saw what a $50 melon looked like up close and waited while they gift wrapped our purchases. The Japanese like to wrap everything but never thought I would see my groceries wrapped before they put them in the bag.
Jon really did it tonight ordering Skate- sting ray. Like everything else you have never had, it tasted a lot like chicken. Pretty good.
Walking through the area looking for a taxi back to the hotel, who should stop his car and come out with his wife to say “hello” to us was Stephano. We really do have a friend in Japan.
Looking forward to going to Hakone tomorrow, seeing Mt. Fugi and best of all, seeing my new friend from my painting studio, Brushstrokes, Hitomi, whose family lives in Hakone.  She and her brother are meeting us for lunch tomorrow at the world famous, Gora Kadan Rykon, where we will be staying. This will be our last treat of having dinner and breakfast served to us in our room while dressed in appropriate Japanese clothes. Hitomi and her brother will be our tour guides for the next day and a half and we will be meeting her entire family for dinner the night before we return home.
What a trip this has been. Thanks for looking at our blog. I loved writing it
A special thanks to my dear friend, Nancy Hevenor from Boulder, without whom I would have given up a long time ago.
Elaine

The Kanaya Holel where McArthur signed the Japanese Constituion

The Kanaya Holel where McArthur signed the Japanese Constituion

The Kanaya Holel where McArthur signed the Japanese Constituion

The summer home during the war. The present Emperor stayed here when he was 9 years old for two years because it had a shelter

The summer home during the war. The present Emperor stayed here when he was 9 years old for two years because it had a shelter

The summer home during the war. The present Emperor stayed here when he was 9 years old for two years because it had a shelter

Kegon waterfalls

Kegon waterfalls

Kegon waterfalls

Didn’t expect to spend hours in this 4 story Apple Store in Tokyo

Didn't expect to spend hours in this 4 story Apple Store in Tokyo

Didn’t expect to spend hours in this 4 story Apple Store in Tokyo

Pagota at the Toshogu Shrine

Pagota at the Toshogu Shrine

Pagota at the Toshogu Shrine

Shinto Bridge in Nikko

Shinto Bridge in Nikko

Shinto Bridge in Nikko

You will find many Japanese paintings with this waterfall in it.

You will find many Japanese paintings with this waterfall in it.

You will find many Japanese paintings with this waterfall in it.

The setting of this 140 year old hotel in the forest of Nikko

The setting of this 140 year old hotel in the forest of Nikko

The setting of this 140 year old hotel in the forest of Nikko

Weddings re in gardens, hotels, in fashion districts ..almost anywhere that is beautiful

Weddings re in gardens, hotels, in fashion districts ..almost anywhere that is beautiful

Weddings re in gardens, hotels, in fashion districts ..almost anywhere that is beautiful

The beauty of the Toshogu Shrine is partially due to its setting in the forest and it’s beautiful vermillion and gold colors.

The beauty of the Toshogu Shrine is partially due to its setting in the forest and it's beautiful vermillion and gold colors.

The beauty of the Toshogu Shrine is partially due to its setting in the forest and it’s beautiful vermillion and gold colors.

500 year old bonsai at the Shunkaen Bonsai Gardens

500 year old bonsai at the Shunkaen Bonsai Gardens

500 year old bonsai at the Shunkaen Bonsai Gardens

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We loved our meal at Stefanos  recommended by friends we met on the Jizo walk. Who could have imagined that we would meet him on the streets of Tokyo, city of 12 million the next night. We felt like we were really a part of this city when we ran into a new friend.

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This restaurant proved we could still find more new food to eat. This time blow fish.

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Architecture on Omotesando Street, Tokyo

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We had a hard time leaving the Toshogu Shrine. There are over 23 structures to visit.

We had a hard time leaving the Toshogu Shrine. There are over 23 structures to visit.

We had a hard time leaving the Toshogu Shrine. There are over 23 structures to visit.

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Our first view of Mt. Fugi…driving to Hacone from Tokyo

Our first view of Mt. Fugi...driving to Hacone from Tokyo

Our first view of Mt. Fugi…driving to Hacone from Tokyo

Mineral baths in Hacone, there are so many all over this area. We will do it at the Gora Kadan Ryokan where we are staying

Mineral baths in Hacone, there are so many all over this area. We will do it at the Gora Kadan Ryokan where we are staying

Mineral baths in Hacone, there are so many all over this area. We will do it at the Gora Kadan Ryokan where we are staying

Hitomi

We met Hitomi, her brother Masatoshi and her daughter Ayumi at the Mansion at the Gora Kadan Ryokan for a boxed Bento lunch.
What fun it was to realize how far we have come to meet again and get to know each other better.
Hitomi joined Brushstrokes Working Artist Studio in February and paints with me there
We also just found out that we will be neighbors for the next year when we rent at the Hermitage.

We met Hitomi, her brother Masatoshi and her daughter Ayumi at the Mansion at the Gora Kadan Ryokan

We met Hitomi, her brother Masatoshi and her daughter Ayumi at the Mansion at the Gora Kadan Ryokan

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Enjoying a boxed Bento lunch

View of Mt Fugi

Cannot believe we got such a clear day to see our dream, Mt. Fugi. After all these years of so many photos, we are finally getting to take our own.

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Mt Fugi

Mt Fugi

Mt Fugi

Mt Fugi

The Hakone Open air Museum

What a place to do plein air painting. Everywhere you look there is a well known Sculpturer- Picasso, Henri Moore, Rodin and many others cover the acre as of parkland, ponds and forests. And we had a perfect day to spend our day walking around.

Kabuki Theater and Grand Sumo Wrestling

Kabuki Theatre

We are enjoying all of the cultural and sport events we can in the few days we are in Tokyo

Kabuki Theatre

Kabuki Theatre

The Star

This is the star performer in the most popular play in Japan, Genroku Chushinura”, a play focusing on different incidents and different characters in this revenge classic.

The Star

The Star

Idemitsu Museum the exhibition in the private museum focused on Sengaihi

Sengaihi was a monk who taught zen teachings through his comical charcoal paintings, poetry and literature

We especially enjoyed his circle explaining that it is hard to draw a perfect circle or it is hard to lead a perfect life.
Jon bought a black stone circle to wear as a pendant which also signifies a long life.
The crane also signifies a long life. Sengai says “And we hope ours is longer”.
We will especially enjoy the red crowned Japanese cranes we bought 40 years ago while in Japan on business- the Datsun pick up truck.

Breakfast

My typical breakfast now consists of a little egg, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, fruit, low fat yogurt and blueberries. Hope I can keep the Vegas up when I get home.

Breakfast

Breakfast

Tsukiji wholesale Fish Market

This market is quite different than the one’s we have seen before. It is wholesale. The farmers and the fishermen from all over Japan take their product to port and it is sent here to be bought by hotels, grocers etc. we loved seeing how the whole process worked but really had to be careful of all the carts of food . They go so quickly from place to place and have the right away.
This market will be torn down for the Olympics and a new one built.

Tsukiji wholesale Fish Market

Tsukiji wholesale Fish Market

Crates and crates of beautiful asparagus. Couldn’t help but think of you Robert.

Crates and crates of beautiful asparagus. Couldn't help but think of you Robert.

Crates and crates of beautiful asparagus. Couldn’t help but think of you Robert.

A new idea for a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale

We bought all kinds of reasonably priced sushi from this conveyor belt restaurant. Mike and Alan ought to think seriously about this concept.

A new idea for a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale

A new idea for a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale

Tuna was

Our favorite item and half the price of other restaurants

Tuna was

Tuna was

View of Tokyo Tower from the top of the Mori Building in Roppongi Hills

View of Tokyo Tower from the top of the Mori Building in Roppongi Hills

View of Tokyo Tower from the top of the Mori Building in Roppongi Hills

Never been to an art museum on the 52nd floor

Never been to an art museum on the 52nd floor

Never been to an art museum on the 52nd floor

The Mori Contemporary Art Museum

The Mori Contemporary Art Museum

The Mori Contemporary Art Museum

Grand Sumo Touranament at Ryogoku Kokugikan arena

Grand Sumo Touranament at Ryogoku Kokugikan arena

Grand Sumo Touranament at Ryogoku Kokugikan arena

Our guide thinks they are beautiful! I am not so sure about that.

Our guide thinks they are beautiful! I am not so sure about that.

Our guide thinks they are beautiful! I am not so sure about that.

Ceremony before match lasts about 15 minutes. Match about 2 minutes First one out of the ring loses.

Ceremony before match lasts about 15 minutes. Match about 2 minutes First one out of the ring loses.

Ceremony before match lasts about 15 minutes. Match about 2 minutes First one out of the ring loses.

Coaches discuss controversial winner

Coaches discuss controversial winner

Coaches discuss controversial winner

Guess who won?

Guess who won?

Guess who won?

Great venue

Great venue

Great venue

These guys average about 500-600 pounds…kinda like you treat in the ER, Jack. Not sure if you see this Laura in your practice.

These guys average about 500-600 pounds...kinda like you treat in the ER, Jack. Not sure if you see this Laura in your practice.

These guys average about 500-600 pounds…kinda like you treat in the ER, Jack. Not sure if you see this Laura in your practice.

Nara

Another beautiful bride and groom in Deer Par -. Nara, Japan

Another beautiful bride and groom in Deer Par -. Nara, Japan

Another beautiful bride and groom in Deer Par -. Nara, Japan

Look at the price of these cantaloupes!

We took a 2 1/2 hour bullet train to Tokyo and checked into the Palace Hotel., It is so “”romantic” as Hitomi noted, to be back where we were over 40 years ago.
We had only a couple of hours so we went to the Ginza area to enjoy the high end shopping.  This is what I call high end.

Look at the price of these cantaloupes!

Look at the price of these cantaloupes!

View from our hotel as the typhoon moves out!

View from our hotel as the typhoon moves out!

View from our hotel as the typhoon moves out!

Jon with Eva-Sun’s husband who joined us for a Giants and Swallows baseball game. Both are from Tokyo

Jon with Eva-Sun's husband who joined us for a Giants and Swallows baseball game. Both are from Tokyo

Jon with Eva-Sun’s husband who joined us for a Giants and Swallows baseball game. Both are from Tokyo

Umbrellas go wild after every home run

Umbrellas go wild after every home run

Umbrellas go wild after every home run

My team the Swallows was winning when we left

My team the Swallows was winning when we left

My team the Swallows was winning when we left

Take me Out to the Ballgame

Had a typical hot dog and beer but of course they also served edamame and seaweed. I had to teach them ” Take Me Out To The Ballgame”

Take me Out to the Ballgame

Take me Out to the Ballgame

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Miho Museum and more

Yesterday our guide told us she wanted to take us to a special museum in the mountains about 1 1/2 hours from Kyoto. She called and found out that most of the roads were washed out from the typhoon that hit the area a few days ago. She told the curator, who is a friend  of hers, that we were friends of Obama, their son was an architect and we really appreciated art. He agreed to open it for us and personally guide us through the museum. ( She had seen the photo of Jon and I with Obama at a fund raiser and figured we were friends. )
How we wished Mike was with us! The Miho Museum designed by I.M.Pei who did the additions to the Louvre in Paris and the National Gallery in Washington D.C., was so incredible, you will have to either come here and experience what we saw today or at least google it and view the site. I cannot begin to give it its due in this blog.
Out of respect for nature, the architect built 80% of the museum below the ground. While the silhouette of the roof has its origins in traditional Japanese architecture, which harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding landscape, the building’s contemporary glass structure allows a light-filled interior space
The museum contains over 2,000 works and features items from Asian and Western cultures.
We approached the museum driving through a stainless steel tunnel with architecturally designed lights having a recurring triangular design throughout the entire museum structure. We then went over a suspension bridge with steel cables and could see the museum sitting high above many steps. The entire museum was done in beige limestone similar to our old home. Each room had striking contrasting colors like red and green against grey walls to accentuate the sculpture.
The curator spent about two hours with us and gave us a beautiful book of the museum as a gift. What a wonderful experience!
We drove on to Nara to spend the night walking about 7 miles through the deer park, up the mountain paths and lantern lined paths to see the Todaiji Temple, one if the largest wooden structures in the world home of the Daibutsu, a large bronze Buddha.

End of another perfect day

End of another perfect day

End of another perfect day

Path of stone lanterns

Would love one of these in our new landscaping

Path of stone lanterns

Path of stone lanterns

Daibutsu, large bronze Buddha

Daibutsu, large bronze Buddha

Daibutsu, large bronze Buddha

The Todaiji Temple

The Todaiji Temple

The Todaiji Temple

Standing Buddha

The objects in the museum often occupy spaces that are specifically reserved for them, allowing visitors to contemplate each work, usually from many angles.

Standing Buddha

Standing Buddha

Elaine and Jon with Curator

The visitor entering the museum is greeted by this splendid panorama with the hills of Shigarki, and Misono, I.M.Pei’s bell tower

Elaine and Jon with Curator

Elaine and Jon with Curator

Entrance to museum

Entrance to museum

Entrance to museum

Elaine and Jon in front of Miho Museum

Elaine and Jon in front of Miho Museum

Elaine and Jon in front of Miho Museum

Walking over the suspension bridge

Walking over the suspension bridge

Walking over the suspension bridge

Stainless steel tunnel leading to the Miho Museum

Stainless steel tunnel leading to the Miho Museum

Stainless steel tunnel leading to the Miho Museum

Just when we thought there would never be another restaurant in Japan with food we haven’t tasted, we stopped at Yururi, ( relaxed- take it easy), a wonderfully elegant restaurant occupying a fine thatched house. The chef was  only 30 year old and had trained in French cooking in Kyoto.
The menu was as follows:
Iced green tea (becoming our favorite drink)
Grilled thin slices Japanese Garlic wild deer with onion,  marinated river fish, cream of mushroom soup with tofu, baked tofu,
Soup with okra and beans, chicken with onion and a little butter wrapped in parchment and roasted, mixed rice and boiled potatoes, miso soup with vegetables, followed by dessert of figs,compost of eggplant and pear, tofu brownies and tofu ice cream and coffee.
I am so happy the scale in our ryokan does not work.

We continued up the mountain to the Miyama-chore goins star attraction, Kitamura., a cluster of some 50 thatched roofed farmhouses. We walked around the beautiful streets set above yellow rice fields , surrounded by forests of cedar and pine trees. The gardens were filled with many varieties of wild flowers. This was an artist’s plein air dream.

We had the most perfect day of the trip yet thanks to our guide, Eva-San who constantly knows that it is ok to go off the itiniery and with that said, we continue to find new and exciting , wonderful treasures we will never forget..

Tawarya, the ryokan that we are staying at has been operating for over three centuries and is rated one of the finest places to stay in the world. Intimate, warm and simple.
A Geisha, a Meiko and the Mama-San were sitting in a small waiting for a dinner appointment. They were kind to let us take photos hoping we would be having dinner with them soon.

Returned to our room to a hot, cypress wood bathe, dressed in our yukata and are waiting for our dinner to be served in our room.

Life is good

Couldn’t decide if they could join the Red Hatters or our  MahJong group. Love these new friends!

Couldn't decide if they could join the Red Hatters or our Mah Jong group.

Couldn’t decide if they could join the Red Hatters or our Mah Jong group.

The thatched roofed homes are all surrounded by windflowers

The thatched roofed homes are all surrounded by windflowers

The thatched roofed homes are all surrounded by windflowers

One of the 50 thatched roofed houses

One of the 50 thatched roofed houses

One of the 50 thatched roofed houses

Miyama Village in Northern Kyoto mountains

Miyama Village in Northern Kyoto mountains

Miyama Village in Northern Kyoto mountains

Wild Japanese grilled female deer and marinated lake fish

Now, this was the best lunch yet cooked by a 30 year old Japanese chef who trained for French cooking in Kyoto

He and his friend killed this deer in the summer, out of the winter season, in a program to thin out the deer. His wife helped skin it. They cut off the neck and hung it for awhile and then cut it into pieces. The front legs and other pieces that were not tender, they made curry with.

Our piece was a tenderloin from the hip area. It was marinated for awhile in rice oil, garlic and s&p. Whole piece was put in a 180 degree centigrade ( about 350 F) oven for about 20 min. It was sliced very thin key and accompanied with an onion.  Put white onion in cold water for about an hour then in in a cloth with rice vinegar and squeeze.
Soooooooo good and tender .
Other dishes were marinated river fish and baked tofu.

marinated river fish, grilled wild Japanese deer with onion and baked tofu

Wild Japanese grilled female deer and marinated lake fish

Building in Joshoko-Ji Temple grounds

Building in Joshoko-Ji Temple grounds

Building in Joshoko-Ji Temple grounds

Joshokoj-Ji Temple constructive in honor of Emperor Kogan for his retirement

Joshokoj-Ji Temple constructive in honor of Emperor Kogan for his retirement

Joshokoj-Ji Temple constructive in honor of Emperor Kogan for his retirement

The most authentic temple we have seen on our trip

The most authentic temple we have seen on our trip

The most authentic temple we have seen on our trip

Our guide, Eva-San and driver, Jun Yoshmura

Our guide, Eva-San and driver, Jun Yoshmura

Our guide, Eva-San and driver, Jun Yoshmura

Jon carefully watching the cutting up rice thinking of the good old days with his wood chipper cases

Jon carefully watching the cutting up rice thinking of the good old days with his wood chipper cases

Jon carefully watching the cutting up rice thinking of the good old days with his wood chipper cases

Elaine getting dressed for dinner at the ryokan

Elaine getting dressed for dinner at the ryokan

Elaine getting dressed for dinner at the ryokan

Third Night in Kyoto

We are in our third night in Kyoto and transferred our bags to one of the finest ryokans in all of Japan, the Tawaraya Ryokan, for two nights. This means we will be having our breakfasts and dinners in our room on a low table and chairs. We will wear their special dinner clothes, sleep clothes and bathe in a hot Japanese bath.
We started the day at the amid era (moss Temple). This was especially interesting as we went into a huge temple room where we joined about 100 other tourists and three priest like men to chant the words of Buddha for about 1/2 hour. Of course, it all was in Japanese so we just relaxed and listen to the peaceful mantra with soft bells ringing every so often.
After that, we walked for about another 1/2 hour through the moss garden of Saihoji. The garden is completely covered with moss of over 120 different kinds. We walked around the heart shaped pond and enjoyed just a tiny bit of Autumn. After a short walk through the local flea market, we went on to the Shogun  Nijo-jo Castle. To safeguard against treachery, the Nightingale Floors which would squeak if any intruder would try to sneak in. I loved it because my black shoes have been squeaking and I felt right at home. The Nishiki Market  is where Kyoto’s high end restaurants and wealthy individuals do their shopping. This is the first time we really saw the beautiful vegetables we have been eating.  Jon tried out one of the fried fish cakes and seemed to really enjoy it.  It oozes old Japan atmosphere before supermarkets. The displays are baffling. Is it a food? Or a spice? Or some kind of Christmas decoration.  Just our kind of place.
We went to the Silver Pavilion which was a contrast to the Golden Pavilion we saw yesterday. It is a sad story because this is where the last Shogun lived before they moved the capital to Tokyo.
Next we took lots of photos at the Gion Corner where many of the scenes from Memories of a  Geisha were filmed.  We saw the small red temple, the bridge and Shimbashi which they say is the single most beautiful street in Japan. It runs along the canal with all its hanging willow trees lining the street and was beautiful in the late afternoon sunlight.
There we saw the cutest little 7 year old girl dressed just like a Maiko visiting from Tokyo. She even allowed me to take a photo with her.

We went back to Antique row so Jon could buy a beautiful Netsuke.  Traditional Japanese men’s garments had no pockets.  They needed a place to keep their tobacco, money etc. The objects were placed in small pouch that was hung by a sash by a cord. At the end of the cord, was a carved button like toggle called a Netsuke.  Now these antique Netsuke’s are highly collectible.

Having found our treasure, we stopped for a cold bottle of wine, brought it back to our Ryokan and enjoyed the Japanese garden outside of our window.

We have seen many beautiful brides in this country

Another Beautiful Bride

Another Beautiful Bride

Sculpture of Full Moon in Silver Pavilion

Our life is like the full moon- nothing wrong…a quote from the Golden Pavillion

Sculpture of Full Moon in Silver Pvaillion

Sculpture of Full Moon in Silver Pvaillion

Gate to Shogun’s Palace was just renovated

Gate to Shogun's Palace was just renovated

Gate to Shogun’s Palace was just renovated

Shogun’s Palace

Shogun's Palace

Shogun’s Palace

Very inexpensive lunch of ramen noodles and dumplings

Very inexpensive lunch of ramen noodles and dumplings

Very inexpensive lunch of ramen noodles and dumplings

Why not a little fried fish?

Why not a little fried fish?

Why not a little fried fish?

Dried shrimp…perfect snack with beer

Dried shrimp...perfect snack with beer

Dried shrimp…perfect snack with beer

Market

Market

Market

Cleaning oysters in the market

Cleaning oysters in the market

Cleaning oysters in the market

Beautiful moss everywhere

Beautiful moss everywhere

Beautiful moss everywhere

Elaine and Jon before entering to chant

Elaine and Jon before entering to chant

Elaine and Jon before entering to chant

Miss my little grandchildren. Take this one home?

Maiko - Geisha in training

Maiko – Geisha in training

Little Maiko

Little Maiko

Little Maiko

Our hostess playing Jon’s game. She was so much fun!

Our hostess playing Jon's game. She was so much fun!

Our hostess playing Jon’s game. She was so much fun!

Ashiya. Japanese Steakhouse

Ashiya. Japanese Steakhouse

Today was such a fun time! We went to Ashiya Japanese Steakhouse and had a wonderful Kobe Steak dinner!
But, the fun part was when Amy, a 19 year old Maiko  ( a young girl training to be a (Geisha) ) come to talk with us and to dance for us. She was very cute, could speak a little English, told us so many things about wanting to be and becoming a Maiko. She came at 15 and soon, at 20 she will begin training as a Geisha. She came because she wanted to learn to dance and there is little opportunity in Japan to dance except as a Geisha. She also learns how to speak the Kyoto dialect, how to plan several instruments, how to prepare the tea service and arrange flowers.
She lives with a foster mother and other young Maiko’s in the District. There are a total of 40 in Kyoto and about 100 Geishas. Te mother pays for all the expenses of the Geishas and if they ever decide to leave , the mother has an accounting and demands the debt of all she has paid be returned to her. It is a very difficult life. Te Geisha works from about 4:00 to 1;00 in the morning. She is not allowed to get married though there are many Geisha’s with children and also men who take care of them or pay their debt and make them their second wives.
Jon and I both want to reread The Memoirs of a Geisha if we can get a copy in Tokyo.

The owner of the restaurant was an old friend of our guide, Eva-san. She use to be a Trainer of Geishas. She has owned this restaurant for about 40 years. Many celebrities like George Bush and Bill Clinton and many movie stars have eaten here.
When we were finished our meal, she brought us a “diet dessert ” wrapped in foil with two candles on it and three cookies. We had to make a wish and blow out the candles. Jon picked up one of the cookies and started to eat it. She screamed, ” Don’t eat that!” We laughed when we realized it was one of those fake cookies Then we opened the diet dessert and  out blew what looked like a giant 5foot caterpillar and scared us both to death. What a fun evening! We asked if she did this to Clinton and she said “of course and he was so much fun.”
We said our goodbyes.She gave Jon an extra basket to sit on to put on his shoes and when he sat down, out came a loud and embarrassing fart. Two tricks in a couple of minutes by a 75  year old retired Geisha. We laughed so hard . What an unexpected fun evening. The Master got his due.

Side script,,,I am so sick of Jon being called the Master or we have to wait for the Master that I will be ready to take him home to be his normal self again. no more Master Jon-sen.

Her dance was lovely…the Four Seasons of Japan. She does not smile but has a very sweet look on her face when she dances.
She told us it takes her about a hour to put on her make up and another hour to do her hair. A man helps to cinch her waist belt as it has to be very tight around the waist.She had three parties to go to tonight. Ours was the second.

Ashiya. Japanese Steakhouse

Ashiya. Japanese Steakhouse

Clinton at our restaurant

Clinton at our restaurant

Clinton at our restaurant

Elaine and Jon with Amy

Elaine and Jon with Amy

Elaine and Jon with Amy

19 year old Maiko

19 year old Maiko

19 year old Maiko

The foster mother buys all of the Maiko’s clothes

The foster mother buys all of the Maiko's clothes

The foster mother buys all of the Maiko’s clothes

What a way to end a meal

What a way to end a meal

What a way to end a meal

Our hostess,Tokito

Our hostess,Tokito

Our hostess,Tokito

Kyoto

Our hotel in Kyoto..The Kyoto Hotel Kyoto

The Kyoto Hotel Kyoto

The Kyoto Hotel Kyoto

The Golden Pavillion

Kyoto’s famed “golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-Ji” is one of the world’s most impressive religious monuments.  The sight of the gold-plated pavilion rising over its reflecting pool is the kind of image that will burn into our memories for year’s to come.

Golden Pavillion

Golden Pavillion

Can’t wait to see if I can do a painting of this!

Good Subject for a painting

Golden Pavillion Reflected

Ryōan-ji

You have probably seen a photo of this garden. It is one of the symbols of Japan.
The garden, an oblong of sand with an austere collection of 15 carefully placed rocks, apparently adrift in a sea of sand, enclosed by an earthen wall reveals the stunning simplicity and harmony of Zen meditation. It is Japan’s most famous hitaniwa (flat garden void of hills or ponds)
We tried to sit here and rid our minds in this busy trip and enjoy the beauty of peacefulness.

Ryōan-ji

Ryōan-ji

Gallery of multi- artist, Domoto Insho

Gallery of multi- artist, Domoto Insho

Gallery of multi- artist, Domoto Insho

We loved so many of Insho’s works

We loved so many of Insho's works

We loved so many of Insho’s works

Elaine walking down the Gion district

This is a famous entertainment and geisha quarter on the eastern part of the Kamo River.
We went into many antique shops and art galleries.

Elaine walking down the Gion district

Elaine walking down the Gion district

Photo of Rooftops

Jon measuring one of the paintings we are interested in. We have taken this photo of rooftops all over South Korea and Japan

Photo of Rooftops

Photo of Rooftops

Jon’s photo of the trip. A Geisha in day clothing

A Geisha in Day Clothing

A Geisha in Day Clothing

Himeji Castle and Yuki’s Family

Himeji Castle

The World Cultural Heritage Site and a National Treasure of Japan. The site is famous for showing the unique defensive methods of Japan’s feudal era

Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle

Elaine and Jon in front of Himeji Castle

Elaine and Jon in front of Himeji Castle

Elaine and Jon in front of Himeji Castle

Yuki’s family in their Osaka restaurant

We promised Yuki, the chef at Amu Japanese Bistro in Boulder, that we would go to her brother’s restaurant in Osaka. This was not such an easy feat. We were in Kurashiki about 120 miles from Osaka. But, since we had no plans to stay in Osaka, we took the bullet  train right to Kyoto, checked into our hotel and the took a taxi to the train station, got on a local train to Osaka, got on two metros and then took a taxi to the area of the restaurant. Sister-in-law had to run down the street to get us to the restaurant.
Her mother, Father, Brother and Sister-in-law were as happy to see us as we were to see them. When I got my iPad out and showed them Yuki’s photo, they said, “that’s my daughter”. We immediately were served saki and then the special Japanese foods that only a mother could cook: Mixunasu (egg plant), Yurime ( lily bulb), chikuzenni (cooked vegetables), chicken Italian style,  Shiraae ( tofu marinated vegetables), Edamame(soy beans), raw ham and fig for dessert. And, of course lots and lots if sake and local beer.

Yuki's family in their Osaka restaurant

Yuki’s family in their Osaka restaurant

Family restaurant

Family restaurant

Family restaurant

Mother’s cooking

These are just an example of the food we were served tonight. Haven’t seen anything like this at the Japanese restaurants we have been eating at.

Mother's Cooking

Mother’s Cooking

Elaine and Yuki’s mother

We were friends immediately. They  promised that they visit us in Boulder next June on their yearly trip to visit Yuki.
Wonder why they just laughter when I suggested we cook out hamburgers?

Elaine and Yuki's mother

Elaine and Yuki’s mother

Jon and Father enjoy a little sake

Jon and Father enjoy a little sake

Jon and Father enjoy a little sake

Yellow tail, tuna and squid sashimi with edamame and tofu salad

Yellow tail, tuna and squid sashimi with edamame and tofu salad

Yellow tail, tuna and squid sashimi with edamame and tofu salad

Raw ham and fresh figs for desert

Raw ham and fresh figs for desert

Raw ham and fresh figs for desert

Yuki at Amu in Boulder

Thank you, Yuki for a wonderful evening with your parents. We love meeting the people of a country and this was more than special..it is what makes real memories of a country and its people.

Yuki at Amu in Boulder

Yuki at Amu in Boulder

Kurashki

Today, we spent the entire day in Kurashki, a farming town during the Tokugawa (Edo) period (1600-1868) when it gained renown for its high quality Bizen-Mai rice. It became a textile area later. Mr. Ohara, a wealthy merchant began collecting  art from around the world which is now housed in several excellent, boutique museums.
Two sculptures by Rodin welcome you at the entrance of the Main Gallery. Main Gallery features art works by Impressionists collected by Kojima Torajiro, as well as European and American Modern Art.
The exhibits include works by El Greco, Monet, Renoir, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Segantini, Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Kadinski, Fontana, Soulages, Pollock, DeKooning, Maillol, Giacometti , to name a few.
It is one of the best art collections we have ever seen in any museum!
It also has one of the best preserved historical districts in Japan, all centered on a peaceful and picturesque canal system, for excellent dining, shopping and a relaxing evening stroll. What a gold mine of a town…our favorite yet!
We had pizza and urchin pasta for lunch and met our first two Americans from Michigan on a business trip. They said they were so happy to talk to us over lunch also since they had not seen any Americans either and  they were getting tired of talking to each other.

Evening view of one of the many sweet shops during our evening stroll.

We are still afraid to buy these sweets because the best looking ones still turn out to be seaweed or fish flavored.

Sweet Shops

Sweet Shops

Home of Ohara Magosaburo

Home of Ohara Magosaburo

Home of Ohara Magosaburo

The historic town of Kurashiki

The historic town of Kurashiki

The historic town of Kurashiki

An example of some of the paintings in the Ohara Museum

Ohara Museum of Art is the oldest private museum in Japan, featuring Western art founded in 1930 by a Kurashiki- based  industrialist, Ohara Magosaburo ( 1880-1943) to commemorate Kojima Torajiro. (1881-1929) a western style painter who died in the previous year.
Ohara funded Kojima to collect European art works through the eye of an artist.
The story I liked best is that Monet hand picked the painting he gave to this museum because of his appreciation of Japan and Japanese art.

Paintings in Ohara Museum

Paintings in Ohara Museum

Typical building in the historical section of Kurashiki

Typical building in the historical section of Kurashiki

Typical building in the historical section of Kurashiki

Thinking of Bette Lestrange and her butterfly on tennis shoe painting when I took this photo

A Rodin sculpture outside the main entrance of the Ohara Museum

A Rodin sculpture outsid the main entrance of the Ohara Museum

A Rodin sculpture outsid the main entrance of the Ohara Museum

Many water lilly ponds around the museum complex

Many water lilly ponds around the museum complex

Many water lily ponds around the museum complex

This part of the museum used to be a grain dry

This part of the museum used to be a grain dry

This part of the museum used to be a grain dry

Elaine and Eva-San going into the Ohara Museum

Elaine and Eva-San going into the Ohara Museum

Elaine and Eva-San going into the Ohara Museum