Kora Kadan
Love our mineral springs hot tub outside our room at Kora Kadan
On our way to The Grand Bath in required Japanese clothes
My friend, Hitomi
Last dinner
Looking forward to Anthony’s wings! Good bye Japan. Great memories.
Hitomi and family
Hitomi, her Mom and Dad, her two brothers and her daughter who is an ER nurse in LA treated us to our last great Japanese dinner
Nikko
Friday, the 27th
I have lost my email and iPad for a few days so will try to update you as best I can.
On Friday, the 27th which I think is the 26th in USA , we drove 2 1/2 hours to drive again into the cool mountains to visit Nikko National Park. The Toshogu Shrine for Tokugau, Shogan is 400 years old and the first we have seen so set in the forest of cedar trees. So beautiful with its colors, art and architectural technique from the 17th Century!
This Shogan brought his religion of a combination of , Confucianism Buddhism and Shintoism to control Japan.
Several of the 23 buildings were know to us previously such as the sleeping cat and the three monkeys !- “Se no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”.
We then took 22 hairpin turns up the sacred Mount Nantai to Kegon Waterfalls. This is one of Japan’s three most beautiful waterfalls and you would recognize it in so many Japanese paintings.
Saturday, September 28th.
Sunday, September 29th.
The Kanaya Holel where McArthur signed the Japanese Constituion
The summer home during the war. The present Emperor stayed here when he was 9 years old for two years because it had a shelter
Kegon waterfalls
Didn’t expect to spend hours in this 4 story Apple Store in Tokyo
Pagota at the Toshogu Shrine
Shinto Bridge in Nikko
You will find many Japanese paintings with this waterfall in it.
The setting of this 140 year old hotel in the forest of Nikko
Weddings re in gardens, hotels, in fashion districts ..almost anywhere that is beautiful
The beauty of the Toshogu Shrine is partially due to its setting in the forest and it’s beautiful vermillion and gold colors.
500 year old bonsai at the Shunkaen Bonsai Gardens
We loved our meal at Stefanos recommended by friends we met on the Jizo walk. Who could have imagined that we would meet him on the streets of Tokyo, city of 12 million the next night. We felt like we were really a part of this city when we ran into a new friend.
This restaurant proved we could still find more new food to eat. This time blow fish.
Architecture on Omotesando Street, Tokyo
We had a hard time leaving the Toshogu Shrine. There are over 23 structures to visit.
Our first view of Mt. Fugi…driving to Hacone from Tokyo
Mineral baths in Hacone, there are so many all over this area. We will do it at the Gora Kadan Ryokan where we are staying
Hitomi
We met Hitomi, her brother Masatoshi and her daughter Ayumi at the Mansion at the Gora Kadan Ryokan for a boxed Bento lunch.
What fun it was to realize how far we have come to meet again and get to know each other better.
Hitomi joined Brushstrokes Working Artist Studio in February and paints with me there
We also just found out that we will be neighbors for the next year when we rent at the Hermitage.
View of Mt Fugi
Cannot believe we got such a clear day to see our dream, Mt. Fugi. After all these years of so many photos, we are finally getting to take our own.
The Hakone Open air Museum
What a place to do plein air painting. Everywhere you look there is a well known Sculpturer- Picasso, Henri Moore, Rodin and many others cover the acre as of parkland, ponds and forests. And we had a perfect day to spend our day walking around.
Kabuki Theater and Grand Sumo Wrestling
Kabuki Theatre
We are enjoying all of the cultural and sport events we can in the few days we are in Tokyo
The Star
This is the star performer in the most popular play in Japan, Genroku Chushinura”, a play focusing on different incidents and different characters in this revenge classic.
Idemitsu Museum the exhibition in the private museum focused on Sengaihi
Sengaihi was a monk who taught zen teachings through his comical charcoal paintings, poetry and literature
We especially enjoyed his circle explaining that it is hard to draw a perfect circle or it is hard to lead a perfect life.
Jon bought a black stone circle to wear as a pendant which also signifies a long life.
The crane also signifies a long life. Sengai says “And we hope ours is longer”.
We will especially enjoy the red crowned Japanese cranes we bought 40 years ago while in Japan on business- the Datsun pick up truck.
Breakfast
My typical breakfast now consists of a little egg, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, fruit, low fat yogurt and blueberries. Hope I can keep the Vegas up when I get home.
Tsukiji wholesale Fish Market
This market is quite different than the one’s we have seen before. It is wholesale. The farmers and the fishermen from all over Japan take their product to port and it is sent here to be bought by hotels, grocers etc. we loved seeing how the whole process worked but really had to be careful of all the carts of food . They go so quickly from place to place and have the right away.
This market will be torn down for the Olympics and a new one built.
Crates and crates of beautiful asparagus. Couldn’t help but think of you Robert.
A new idea for a restaurant in Fort Lauderdale
We bought all kinds of reasonably priced sushi from this conveyor belt restaurant. Mike and Alan ought to think seriously about this concept.
Tuna was
Our favorite item and half the price of other restaurants
View of Tokyo Tower from the top of the Mori Building in Roppongi Hills
Never been to an art museum on the 52nd floor
The Mori Contemporary Art Museum
Grand Sumo Touranament at Ryogoku Kokugikan arena
Our guide thinks they are beautiful! I am not so sure about that.
Ceremony before match lasts about 15 minutes. Match about 2 minutes First one out of the ring loses.
Coaches discuss controversial winner
Guess who won?
Great venue
These guys average about 500-600 pounds…kinda like you treat in the ER, Jack. Not sure if you see this Laura in your practice.
Nara
Another beautiful bride and groom in Deer Par -. Nara, Japan
Look at the price of these cantaloupes!
We took a 2 1/2 hour bullet train to Tokyo and checked into the Palace Hotel., It is so “”romantic” as Hitomi noted, to be back where we were over 40 years ago.
We had only a couple of hours so we went to the Ginza area to enjoy the high end shopping. This is what I call high end.
View from our hotel as the typhoon moves out!
Jon with Eva-Sun’s husband who joined us for a Giants and Swallows baseball game. Both are from Tokyo
Umbrellas go wild after every home run
My team the Swallows was winning when we left
Take me Out to the Ballgame
Had a typical hot dog and beer but of course they also served edamame and seaweed. I had to teach them ” Take Me Out To The Ballgame”
Miho Museum and more
Yesterday our guide told us she wanted to take us to a special museum in the mountains about 1 1/2 hours from Kyoto. She called and found out that most of the roads were washed out from the typhoon that hit the area a few days ago. She told the curator, who is a friend of hers, that we were friends of Obama, their son was an architect and we really appreciated art. He agreed to open it for us and personally guide us through the museum. ( She had seen the photo of Jon and I with Obama at a fund raiser and figured we were friends. )
How we wished Mike was with us! The Miho Museum designed by I.M.Pei who did the additions to the Louvre in Paris and the National Gallery in Washington D.C., was so incredible, you will have to either come here and experience what we saw today or at least google it and view the site. I cannot begin to give it its due in this blog.
Out of respect for nature, the architect built 80% of the museum below the ground. While the silhouette of the roof has its origins in traditional Japanese architecture, which harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding landscape, the building’s contemporary glass structure allows a light-filled interior space
The museum contains over 2,000 works and features items from Asian and Western cultures.
We approached the museum driving through a stainless steel tunnel with architecturally designed lights having a recurring triangular design throughout the entire museum structure. We then went over a suspension bridge with steel cables and could see the museum sitting high above many steps. The entire museum was done in beige limestone similar to our old home. Each room had striking contrasting colors like red and green against grey walls to accentuate the sculpture.
The curator spent about two hours with us and gave us a beautiful book of the museum as a gift. What a wonderful experience!
We drove on to Nara to spend the night walking about 7 miles through the deer park, up the mountain paths and lantern lined paths to see the Todaiji Temple, one if the largest wooden structures in the world home of the Daibutsu, a large bronze Buddha.
End of another perfect day
Path of stone lanterns
Would love one of these in our new landscaping
Daibutsu, large bronze Buddha
The Todaiji Temple
Standing Buddha
The objects in the museum often occupy spaces that are specifically reserved for them, allowing visitors to contemplate each work, usually from many angles.
Elaine and Jon with Curator
The visitor entering the museum is greeted by this splendid panorama with the hills of Shigarki, and Misono, I.M.Pei’s bell tower
Entrance to museum
Elaine and Jon in front of Miho Museum
Walking over the suspension bridge
Stainless steel tunnel leading to the Miho Museum
Just when we thought there would never be another restaurant in Japan with food we haven’t tasted, we stopped at Yururi, ( relaxed- take it easy), a wonderfully elegant restaurant occupying a fine thatched house. The chef was only 30 year old and had trained in French cooking in Kyoto.
The menu was as follows:
Iced green tea (becoming our favorite drink)
Grilled thin slices Japanese Garlic wild deer with onion, marinated river fish, cream of mushroom soup with tofu, baked tofu,
Soup with okra and beans, chicken with onion and a little butter wrapped in parchment and roasted, mixed rice and boiled potatoes, miso soup with vegetables, followed by dessert of figs,compost of eggplant and pear, tofu brownies and tofu ice cream and coffee.
I am so happy the scale in our ryokan does not work.
We continued up the mountain to the Miyama-chore goins star attraction, Kitamura., a cluster of some 50 thatched roofed farmhouses. We walked around the beautiful streets set above yellow rice fields , surrounded by forests of cedar and pine trees. The gardens were filled with many varieties of wild flowers. This was an artist’s plein air dream.
We had the most perfect day of the trip yet thanks to our guide, Eva-San who constantly knows that it is ok to go off the itiniery and with that said, we continue to find new and exciting , wonderful treasures we will never forget..
Tawarya, the ryokan that we are staying at has been operating for over three centuries and is rated one of the finest places to stay in the world. Intimate, warm and simple.
A Geisha, a Meiko and the Mama-San were sitting in a small waiting for a dinner appointment. They were kind to let us take photos hoping we would be having dinner with them soon.
Returned to our room to a hot, cypress wood bathe, dressed in our yukata and are waiting for our dinner to be served in our room.
Life is good
Couldn’t decide if they could join the Red Hatters or our MahJong group. Love these new friends!
The thatched roofed homes are all surrounded by windflowers
One of the 50 thatched roofed houses
Miyama Village in Northern Kyoto mountains
Wild Japanese grilled female deer and marinated lake fish
Now, this was the best lunch yet cooked by a 30 year old Japanese chef who trained for French cooking in Kyoto
He and his friend killed this deer in the summer, out of the winter season, in a program to thin out the deer. His wife helped skin it. They cut off the neck and hung it for awhile and then cut it into pieces. The front legs and other pieces that were not tender, they made curry with.
Our piece was a tenderloin from the hip area. It was marinated for awhile in rice oil, garlic and s&p. Whole piece was put in a 180 degree centigrade ( about 350 F) oven for about 20 min. It was sliced very thin key and accompanied with an onion. Put white onion in cold water for about an hour then in in a cloth with rice vinegar and squeeze.
Soooooooo good and tender .
Other dishes were marinated river fish and baked tofu.
Building in Joshoko-Ji Temple grounds
Joshokoj-Ji Temple constructive in honor of Emperor Kogan for his retirement
The most authentic temple we have seen on our trip
Our guide, Eva-San and driver, Jun Yoshmura
Jon carefully watching the cutting up rice thinking of the good old days with his wood chipper cases
Elaine getting dressed for dinner at the ryokan
Third Night in Kyoto
We are in our third night in Kyoto and transferred our bags to one of the finest ryokans in all of Japan, the Tawaraya Ryokan, for two nights. This means we will be having our breakfasts and dinners in our room on a low table and chairs. We will wear their special dinner clothes, sleep clothes and bathe in a hot Japanese bath.
We started the day at the amid era (moss Temple). This was especially interesting as we went into a huge temple room where we joined about 100 other tourists and three priest like men to chant the words of Buddha for about 1/2 hour. Of course, it all was in Japanese so we just relaxed and listen to the peaceful mantra with soft bells ringing every so often.
After that, we walked for about another 1/2 hour through the moss garden of Saihoji. The garden is completely covered with moss of over 120 different kinds. We walked around the heart shaped pond and enjoyed just a tiny bit of Autumn. After a short walk through the local flea market, we went on to the Shogun Nijo-jo Castle. To safeguard against treachery, the Nightingale Floors which would squeak if any intruder would try to sneak in. I loved it because my black shoes have been squeaking and I felt right at home. The Nishiki Market is where Kyoto’s high end restaurants and wealthy individuals do their shopping. This is the first time we really saw the beautiful vegetables we have been eating. Jon tried out one of the fried fish cakes and seemed to really enjoy it. It oozes old Japan atmosphere before supermarkets. The displays are baffling. Is it a food? Or a spice? Or some kind of Christmas decoration. Just our kind of place.
We went to the Silver Pavilion which was a contrast to the Golden Pavilion we saw yesterday. It is a sad story because this is where the last Shogun lived before they moved the capital to Tokyo.
Next we took lots of photos at the Gion Corner where many of the scenes from Memories of a Geisha were filmed. We saw the small red temple, the bridge and Shimbashi which they say is the single most beautiful street in Japan. It runs along the canal with all its hanging willow trees lining the street and was beautiful in the late afternoon sunlight.
There we saw the cutest little 7 year old girl dressed just like a Maiko visiting from Tokyo. She even allowed me to take a photo with her.
We went back to Antique row so Jon could buy a beautiful Netsuke. Traditional Japanese men’s garments had no pockets. They needed a place to keep their tobacco, money etc. The objects were placed in small pouch that was hung by a sash by a cord. At the end of the cord, was a carved button like toggle called a Netsuke. Now these antique Netsuke’s are highly collectible.
Having found our treasure, we stopped for a cold bottle of wine, brought it back to our Ryokan and enjoyed the Japanese garden outside of our window.
We have seen many beautiful brides in this country
Sculpture of Full Moon in Silver Pavilion
Our life is like the full moon- nothing wrong…a quote from the Golden Pavillion
Gate to Shogun’s Palace was just renovated
Shogun’s Palace
Very inexpensive lunch of ramen noodles and dumplings
Why not a little fried fish?
Dried shrimp…perfect snack with beer
Market
Cleaning oysters in the market
Beautiful moss everywhere
Elaine and Jon before entering to chant
Miss my little grandchildren. Take this one home?
Little Maiko
Our hostess playing Jon’s game. She was so much fun!
Ashiya. Japanese Steakhouse
Ashiya. Japanese Steakhouse
Today was such a fun time! We went to Ashiya Japanese Steakhouse and had a wonderful Kobe Steak dinner!
But, the fun part was when Amy, a 19 year old Maiko ( a young girl training to be a (Geisha) ) come to talk with us and to dance for us. She was very cute, could speak a little English, told us so many things about wanting to be and becoming a Maiko. She came at 15 and soon, at 20 she will begin training as a Geisha. She came because she wanted to learn to dance and there is little opportunity in Japan to dance except as a Geisha. She also learns how to speak the Kyoto dialect, how to plan several instruments, how to prepare the tea service and arrange flowers.
She lives with a foster mother and other young Maiko’s in the District. There are a total of 40 in Kyoto and about 100 Geishas. Te mother pays for all the expenses of the Geishas and if they ever decide to leave , the mother has an accounting and demands the debt of all she has paid be returned to her. It is a very difficult life. Te Geisha works from about 4:00 to 1;00 in the morning. She is not allowed to get married though there are many Geisha’s with children and also men who take care of them or pay their debt and make them their second wives.
Jon and I both want to reread The Memoirs of a Geisha if we can get a copy in Tokyo.
The owner of the restaurant was an old friend of our guide, Eva-san. She use to be a Trainer of Geishas. She has owned this restaurant for about 40 years. Many celebrities like George Bush and Bill Clinton and many movie stars have eaten here.
When we were finished our meal, she brought us a “diet dessert ” wrapped in foil with two candles on it and three cookies. We had to make a wish and blow out the candles. Jon picked up one of the cookies and started to eat it. She screamed, ” Don’t eat that!” We laughed when we realized it was one of those fake cookies Then we opened the diet dessert and out blew what looked like a giant 5foot caterpillar and scared us both to death. What a fun evening! We asked if she did this to Clinton and she said “of course and he was so much fun.”
We said our goodbyes.She gave Jon an extra basket to sit on to put on his shoes and when he sat down, out came a loud and embarrassing fart. Two tricks in a couple of minutes by a 75 year old retired Geisha. We laughed so hard . What an unexpected fun evening. The Master got his due.
Side script,,,I am so sick of Jon being called the Master or we have to wait for the Master that I will be ready to take him home to be his normal self again. no more Master Jon-sen.
Her dance was lovely…the Four Seasons of Japan. She does not smile but has a very sweet look on her face when she dances.
She told us it takes her about a hour to put on her make up and another hour to do her hair. A man helps to cinch her waist belt as it has to be very tight around the waist.She had three parties to go to tonight. Ours was the second.
Clinton at our restaurant
Elaine and Jon with Amy
19 year old Maiko
The foster mother buys all of the Maiko’s clothes
What a way to end a meal
Our hostess,Tokito
Kyoto
Our hotel in Kyoto..The Kyoto Hotel Kyoto
The Golden Pavillion
Kyoto’s famed “golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-Ji” is one of the world’s most impressive religious monuments. The sight of the gold-plated pavilion rising over its reflecting pool is the kind of image that will burn into our memories for year’s to come.
Can’t wait to see if I can do a painting of this!
Ryōan-ji
You have probably seen a photo of this garden. It is one of the symbols of Japan.
The garden, an oblong of sand with an austere collection of 15 carefully placed rocks, apparently adrift in a sea of sand, enclosed by an earthen wall reveals the stunning simplicity and harmony of Zen meditation. It is Japan’s most famous hitaniwa (flat garden void of hills or ponds)
We tried to sit here and rid our minds in this busy trip and enjoy the beauty of peacefulness.
Gallery of multi- artist, Domoto Insho
We loved so many of Insho’s works
Elaine walking down the Gion district
This is a famous entertainment and geisha quarter on the eastern part of the Kamo River.
We went into many antique shops and art galleries.
Photo of Rooftops
Jon measuring one of the paintings we are interested in. We have taken this photo of rooftops all over South Korea and Japan
Jon’s photo of the trip. A Geisha in day clothing
Himeji Castle and Yuki’s Family
Himeji Castle
The World Cultural Heritage Site and a National Treasure of Japan. The site is famous for showing the unique defensive methods of Japan’s feudal era
Elaine and Jon in front of Himeji Castle
Yuki’s family in their Osaka restaurant
We promised Yuki, the chef at Amu Japanese Bistro in Boulder, that we would go to her brother’s restaurant in Osaka. This was not such an easy feat. We were in Kurashiki about 120 miles from Osaka. But, since we had no plans to stay in Osaka, we took the bullet train right to Kyoto, checked into our hotel and the took a taxi to the train station, got on a local train to Osaka, got on two metros and then took a taxi to the area of the restaurant. Sister-in-law had to run down the street to get us to the restaurant.
Her mother, Father, Brother and Sister-in-law were as happy to see us as we were to see them. When I got my iPad out and showed them Yuki’s photo, they said, “that’s my daughter”. We immediately were served saki and then the special Japanese foods that only a mother could cook: Mixunasu (egg plant), Yurime ( lily bulb), chikuzenni (cooked vegetables), chicken Italian style, Shiraae ( tofu marinated vegetables), Edamame(soy beans), raw ham and fig for dessert. And, of course lots and lots if sake and local beer.
Family restaurant
Mother’s cooking
These are just an example of the food we were served tonight. Haven’t seen anything like this at the Japanese restaurants we have been eating at.
Elaine and Yuki’s mother
We were friends immediately. They promised that they visit us in Boulder next June on their yearly trip to visit Yuki.
Wonder why they just laughter when I suggested we cook out hamburgers?
Jon and Father enjoy a little sake
Yellow tail, tuna and squid sashimi with edamame and tofu salad
Raw ham and fresh figs for desert
Yuki at Amu in Boulder
Thank you, Yuki for a wonderful evening with your parents. We love meeting the people of a country and this was more than special..it is what makes real memories of a country and its people.
Kurashki
Today, we spent the entire day in Kurashki, a farming town during the Tokugawa (Edo) period (1600-1868) when it gained renown for its high quality Bizen-Mai rice. It became a textile area later. Mr. Ohara, a wealthy merchant began collecting art from around the world which is now housed in several excellent, boutique museums.
Two sculptures by Rodin welcome you at the entrance of the Main Gallery. Main Gallery features art works by Impressionists collected by Kojima Torajiro, as well as European and American Modern Art.
The exhibits include works by El Greco, Monet, Renoir, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Segantini, Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Kadinski, Fontana, Soulages, Pollock, DeKooning, Maillol, Giacometti , to name a few.
It is one of the best art collections we have ever seen in any museum!
It also has one of the best preserved historical districts in Japan, all centered on a peaceful and picturesque canal system, for excellent dining, shopping and a relaxing evening stroll. What a gold mine of a town…our favorite yet!
We had pizza and urchin pasta for lunch and met our first two Americans from Michigan on a business trip. They said they were so happy to talk to us over lunch also since they had not seen any Americans either and they were getting tired of talking to each other.
Evening view of one of the many sweet shops during our evening stroll.
We are still afraid to buy these sweets because the best looking ones still turn out to be seaweed or fish flavored.
Home of Ohara Magosaburo
The historic town of Kurashiki
An example of some of the paintings in the Ohara Museum
Ohara Museum of Art is the oldest private museum in Japan, featuring Western art founded in 1930 by a Kurashiki- based industrialist, Ohara Magosaburo ( 1880-1943) to commemorate Kojima Torajiro. (1881-1929) a western style painter who died in the previous year.
Ohara funded Kojima to collect European art works through the eye of an artist.
The story I liked best is that Monet hand picked the painting he gave to this museum because of his appreciation of Japan and Japanese art.